By the Templateez Team · Licensed Attorney · June 2026

Bathroom Remodeling Intake Forms: What Contractors Need to Capture at Project Intake

A bathroom remodel has more decision points per square foot than almost any other residential project. Plumbing, electrical, tile, fixtures, ventilation, waterproofing, structural concerns — all compressed into a space that rarely exceeds eighty square feet. A contractor who walks into a first meeting with a clipboard that says "name, address, budget" is going to spend the next three weeks chasing information that should have been documented in the first conversation.

The intake is where you define the project. Not the sales pitch, not the mood board — the actual scope of work, the existing conditions that will constrain it, and the decisions the homeowner needs to make before you can produce an accurate estimate. A structured bathroom remodeling intake form captures all of this in one session, so your estimator, plumber, electrician, and tile installer are all working from the same document. Here is what it needs to cover.

Project scope: defining the job before you price it

Bathroom remodels range from a weekend vanity swap to a six-week gut renovation that requires moving drain lines through a concrete slab. Your intake form needs to identify which type of project this is immediately, because everything downstream — budget, timeline, permits, subcontractors — depends on scope.

Capture the project type with clear categories:

• Full gut renovation — demo to studs. New plumbing, new electrical, new everything. This is the highest-complexity project and requires permits across multiple trades.
• Cosmetic refresh — fixtures, paint, vanity swap, mirror, hardware. No plumbing relocation, no electrical changes. Fastest turnaround, lowest disruption, often no permit required.
• Tub-to-shower conversion — one of the most common bathroom remodel requests. Requires plumbing modification, often a new drain location, waterproofing, and frequently a structural assessment if the existing tub platform is being removed.
• Shower expansion — enlarging an existing shower stall, sometimes by absorbing an adjacent closet or linen space. Involves moving walls, relocating the shower valve, and extending the drain and waterproofing membrane.
• ADA or accessibility retrofit — grab bars, curbless shower entry, comfort-height toilet, wider doorway, roll-under vanity. These projects have specific dimensional requirements under ADA guidelines and may qualify for tax credits or insurance reimbursement.
• Powder room addition — adding a half-bath where none exists. This is as much a plumbing project as a finish project. Where are the existing supply and waste lines? Can they be extended to the new location without major demolition?
• Master bath expansion — borrowing space from an adjacent bedroom or hallway to create a larger master bathroom. Structural and load-bearing wall considerations are critical.
• Basement bathroom — the rough-in requirements for a below-grade bathroom are fundamentally different. If there is no existing rough-in, you need an up-flush system or you are cutting the slab to install a new drain line. Document whether the slab has already been stubbed for a future bathroom or if this is a from-scratch installation.

Existing bathroom assessment: what you are working with

The existing conditions of the bathroom dictate what is possible, what is expensive, and what is going to surprise everyone if it is not documented upfront. Your intake form should walk through every system in the current space.

Current layout. Capture the dimensions and a basic floor plan. Where is the door? Which wall has the vanity? Where are the toilet, tub, and shower? A rough sketch with measurements is more useful than any description. The layout determines whether the homeowner's vision is physically possible without moving plumbing — which is the single biggest cost variable in a bathroom remodel.

Fixture locations. Document whether existing fixtures can stay in place or need to move. A toilet that stays where it is costs nothing to reconnect. A toilet that moves three feet requires relocating the closet flange, which on a slab means cutting concrete. That is a $2,000 to $5,000 line item that needs to appear in the estimate, not be discovered during demolition.

Plumbing access. Is the plumbing in an open wall (accessible from behind via a closet or adjacent room) or is it on an exterior wall with limited access? Is the bathroom over a basement with exposed joists, or is it on a concrete slab? Slab work is categorically more expensive and time-consuming than framed-floor plumbing access. This single field changes the project timeline by days.

Electrical. How many outlets exist? Are they GFCI-protected? Is there a dedicated circuit for the bathroom or is it sharing with an adjacent room? Where is the exhaust fan, and does it vent to the exterior or terminate in the attic? Is the lighting on its own circuit? Older homes frequently have bathrooms that do not meet current electrical code, which means any permitted renovation will require upgrades.

Ventilation. Document the current exhaust fan — its CFM rating, whether it has a timer switch, and where it vents. A fan that terminates in the attic instead of exiting through the roof or soffit is a code violation in every jurisdiction and will need to be corrected during the remodel. If the bathroom has an operable window, note it — some codes allow a window as an alternative to mechanical ventilation for smaller bathrooms.

Structural concerns. If the homeowner wants a freestanding cast-iron soaking tub, the floor framing needs to support it. A filled 60-gallon cast-iron tub with a person in it can weigh over 800 pounds. Standard residential floor joists may need sistering or reinforcement. Similarly, large-format porcelain tile on the floor adds significant weight. Document the floor structure so your estimator can flag structural work before it becomes a change order.

Water damage. Pull back the baseboard. Check the subfloor around the toilet base. Look for soft spots near the tub or shower. Ask the homeowner if they have noticed musty smells, peeling paint, or discoloration on the ceiling below the bathroom. Water damage behind walls and under floors is the most common hidden cost in bathroom remodeling, and documenting what you can see at intake helps set expectations for the contingency line in your estimate.

Age of systems. A bathroom with 1970s galvanized steel supply lines and cast-iron drain pipes is a different project than one with 2010 PEX and PVC. Older plumbing and electrical may need to be brought up to current code as part of any permitted renovation, and that cost needs to be in the estimate from day one.

Fixture selections: the decisions that drive the budget

Fixtures are where the homeowner's taste meets the contractor's pricing. A standard toilet costs $150. A wall-hung toilet with an in-wall carrier costs $1,200 plus the labor to frame the carrier into the wall. Both are toilets. The intake form needs to capture which direction the project is heading.

• Toilet — standard height or comfort height (ADA-compliant, 17-19 inches), one-piece or two-piece, wall-hung (requires in-wall tank carrier and reinforced framing), bidet seat or integrated bidet. Wall-hung and bidet installations have plumbing and electrical requirements that affect the rough-in phase.
• Vanity — single sink or double, freestanding or floating (wall-mounted), stock or custom. A floating vanity requires blocking in the wall during framing, which means the decision has to be made before drywall goes up, not after.
• Sink — undermount, vessel (sits on top of counter), or integrated (sink and counter are one piece). Each has different countertop requirements and faucet configurations.
• Faucet — single-handle, widespread (three-hole), or wall-mount. Wall-mount faucets require in-wall rough-in, which is a framing-phase decision. Widespread faucets require a countertop or sink with the correct hole spacing.
• Tub — alcove (three-wall), freestanding, soaking (deeper than standard), whirlpool or air-jet. Freestanding tubs need a floor-mounted faucet or wall-mounted filler, plus a dedicated drain location. Whirlpool tubs need a dedicated electrical circuit and a GFCI-protected motor access panel.
• Shower — prefabricated base and walls (fastest, most economical), custom tile (shower pan liner or curbless), or curbless/barrier-free (requires a linear drain and a precisely sloped floor). Custom tile showers require waterproofing membrane installation — Kerdi, RedGard, or hot-mopped — and this is not optional.
• Shower door — frameless glass (heavy, requires header or specific glass thickness), semi-frameless, sliding/bypass (for tub-shower combos), or curtain rod. Frameless glass is the most popular request and the most expensive option.
• Lighting — recessed cans, wall sconces flanking the mirror, vanity bar light above the mirror, in-shower wet-rated fixture. Every lighting position is a separate electrical box that needs to be roughed in during framing.

Surfaces: tile, countertops, and tub surrounds

Surface selections affect both the aesthetic and the labor cost. Large-format porcelain tile takes fewer pieces but requires a perfectly flat substrate and is harder to cut. Natural stone requires sealing. Heated floors need a dedicated electrical circuit. Capture these decisions at intake so your tile contractor can bid accurately.

• Floor tile — porcelain (most durable, widest selection), ceramic (economical), natural stone (marble, travertine, slate — requires sealing), luxury vinyl plank (waterproof, warm underfoot, fastest installation), or heated floor system (electric mat under tile, dedicated 20-amp circuit, thermostat). If the client wants heated floors, this must be known before the subfloor is prepped.
• Wall tile — full height (floor to ceiling), wainscot height (typically 48 inches with paint above), or accent wall only. Full-height tile is the current trend but dramatically increases material and labor costs. Capture the intended tile height for each wall — shower walls, vanity wall, water closet area.
• Countertop — quartz (engineered, non-porous, most popular), granite (natural, requires sealing), marble (beautiful but etches and stains), solid surface (Corian, seamless integrated sink possible). The countertop choice affects the sink type and faucet configuration, so these decisions are linked.
• Tub surround — tile (custom, most durable, highest labor cost), acrylic panel (prefabricated, fast installation), or solid surface. If the client is keeping an existing tub but re-doing the surround, the new surround material and height need to be documented.

Plumbing scope: the work behind the walls

Plumbing is the most consequential trade in a bathroom remodel and the one most likely to generate change orders if the scope is not clearly defined at intake.

• Moving drain locations — this is the single biggest plumbing cost variable. On a framed floor over a basement, moving a drain is moderately complex. On a slab-on-grade foundation, it means saw-cutting the concrete, excavating, rerouting the drain line, backfilling, and patching the slab. Document the foundation type and the extent of any drain relocations.
• Water supply relocation — moving supply lines (hot and cold) is less expensive than drain work but still requires opening walls. If the vanity is moving to a different wall, the supply lines move with it.
• Adding fixtures — a second sink means a second set of supply lines, a second drain, and proper venting. A bidet line needs a cold water supply and a drain. Each new fixture adds to the plumbing scope.
• Water heater capacity — a new rain showerhead, a soaking tub, and a second sink all increase hot water demand. Can the existing water heater handle the new fixture load, or does it need to be upsized? A tankless recirculating system? This is not the plumber's problem to discover during the rough-in phase.
• Shut-off valves — document whether individual shut-off valves exist for the bathroom or if the entire house supply must be shut down for plumbing work. Installing dedicated shut-offs during the remodel is standard practice and should be in the scope.
• Venting — every plumbing fixture requires proper venting to function correctly and meet code. If you are adding fixtures or moving existing ones, the vent routing needs to be planned. An improperly vented drain causes slow drains, gurgling, and sewer gas in the bathroom.

Electrical scope: circuits, GFCI, and code compliance

Electrical work in a bathroom is governed by specific code requirements that are stricter than other rooms in the house. Your intake form should document the current state and the planned additions.

• GFCI requirements — all bathroom outlets must be GFCI-protected. This is code everywhere, not optional. If the existing outlets are not GFCI, they will need to be upgraded as part of any permitted renovation.
• Exhaust fan — document the planned fan size (CFM rating based on bathroom square footage), noise rating (measured in sones — lower is quieter), and whether the client wants a timer switch, humidity sensor, or combination fan-light-heater unit. The fan must vent to the exterior, not into the attic.
• Lighting circuits — code requires lighting on a separate circuit from outlets in most jurisdictions. If the existing bathroom shares a circuit with an adjacent room, a new dedicated circuit may need to be pulled from the panel.
• Heated floor — electric radiant floor mats require a dedicated 20-amp circuit and a wall-mounted thermostat. This is a framing-phase decision because the circuit needs to be run before drywall.
• In-shower fixtures — any light or fan installed inside the shower must be wet-rated (not just damp-rated). The existing fixture may not meet this requirement if the shower footprint is changing.

Permits and codes: what the jurisdiction requires

Bathroom remodels trigger permit requirements more often than homeowners expect. Your intake form should document what permits will be needed so the timeline and cost reflect the reality of the approval process.

• Building permit — required for most bathroom renovations that involve structural changes, layout modifications, or any work behind walls. A cosmetic refresh (paint, hardware, mirror) typically does not require one. Everything else usually does.
• Plumbing permit — required whenever fixtures are moved, added, or drain lines are modified. A like-for-like toilet swap generally does not require a permit. Adding a second sink or moving the shower drain does.
• Electrical permit — required for new circuits, panel work, or any wiring changes. Adding a heated floor circuit, upgrading to GFCI outlets, or adding recessed lighting all trigger this requirement.
• IRC bathroom code — the International Residential Code sets minimum standards that apply in most U.S. jurisdictions: minimum 21 inches of clearance in front of the toilet, minimum 30-inch by 30-inch shower size, GFCI protection on all outlets, mechanical ventilation or operable window, tempered or laminated glass in shower enclosures and within 60 inches of the tub.
• Local amendments — some jurisdictions impose requirements stricter than the IRC. California's Title 24 energy code affects lighting and ventilation. Some municipalities require a licensed master plumber to pull the plumbing permit, not just the general contractor. Document the local jurisdiction so you can check for amendments before submitting.

Pricing: how the numbers break down

A bathroom remodel estimate is not a single number — it is a collection of trade-specific line items, material allowances, and contingencies. Your intake form should capture enough information to produce an itemized estimate, not a ballpark.

• Per-square-foot framing — bathroom remodel costs vary wildly by scope. A cosmetic refresh runs $75 to $150 per square foot. A gut renovation with custom tile and relocated plumbing can exceed $500 per square foot. The intake captures the scope; the estimate applies the rate.
• Fixture allowances — separate the fixture budget into tiers. Budget fixtures (builder-grade toilet, stock vanity, basic faucet) run $1,500 to $3,000 total. Mid-range (comfort-height toilet, semi-custom vanity, quality faucet) runs $3,000 to $7,000. High-end (wall-hung toilet, custom vanity, wall-mount faucet, freestanding tub) can exceed $15,000 in fixtures alone. Document the client's tier preference at intake so your estimate is calibrated.
• Tile labor — typically $8 to $25 per square foot depending on tile size, pattern complexity, and substrate preparation. Large-format tiles on a perfectly flat substrate cost less per square foot than small mosaic tiles on a curved shower wall. Heated floor installation adds $10 to $15 per square foot for the mat and thermostat.
• Plumbing labor — rough-in (new supply and drain lines, valve installation) is a separate line item from finish (connecting fixtures, testing). Slab work adds a significant premium. Document rough-in scope separately so the plumbing bid is accurate.
• Electrical labor — new circuits from the panel, GFCI upgrades, fan installation, lighting rough-in. Each is a line item. If the panel is full and a new breaker requires a sub-panel, that is a separate cost that should be flagged at intake.
• Demolition — demo is its own line item. Removing a cast-iron tub versus a fiberglass insert are different levels of effort. Removing tile from a mortar bed versus drywall-mounted tile are different levels of destruction. Document what is being removed so demo can be priced accurately.
• Contingency — every bathroom remodel estimate should include a 10 to 20 percent contingency for hidden issues. Water damage behind walls. Outdated plumbing that needs replacement. Subfloor rot under the toilet. Mold behind the tile. These are not surprises — they are statistical certainties in older bathrooms. The contingency line is where you account for them, and the intake form is where you set the homeowner's expectation that the contingency exists and why.

Building the estimate from a complete intake

A bathroom remodel intake form that captures scope, existing conditions, fixture selections, plumbing and electrical requirements, surface choices, permit needs, and pricing structure gives you everything you need to produce an estimate that holds up. No callbacks asking what kind of tile they want. No mid-project discovery that the floor cannot support the tub they selected. No change order because nobody documented that the bathroom is on a slab and the drain needs to move.

The intake is the foundation of the project. When it is thorough, the estimate is accurate, the timeline is realistic, and the homeowner knows what they are paying for before the first tile is removed. When it is not, every gap in documentation becomes a conversation, a delay, or a dispute.

If you are running a general home remodeling operation, bathroom projects share structural and permitting considerations with kitchen and whole-house renovations — but the fixture density, waterproofing requirements, and code-driven ventilation and GFCI mandates make bathroom intake distinctly more detailed per square foot. And if your crews also handle the plumbing side independently, a dedicated plumbing intake form captures the supply, drain, and venting scope with the specificity that a general remodel intake cannot.

The Trade Services Bundle includes bathroom remodeling alongside 51 other service categories, each with trade-specific intake fields built for the work your crews actually do.