By the Templateez Team · Licensed Attorney · June 2026

Deck & Patio Construction Intake Forms: What Contractors Need to Capture at Project Intake

A homeowner calls and says they want a new deck. That sentence could mean a 100-square-foot ground-level platform off a sliding door or a 900-square-foot elevated multi-level structure with cable railing, integrated lighting, and an outdoor kitchen requiring electrical, gas, and water rough-ins. The difference between those two projects is tens of thousands of dollars, months of lead time, and an entirely different permitting process. Without a structured intake, you are quoting blind.

Deck and patio construction sits at the intersection of carpentry, concrete work, structural engineering, and code compliance. A contractor who shows up to a site visit without having captured the basics beforehand wastes the client's time, misquotes the job, and misses critical site conditions that change the scope entirely. A proper deck and patio intake form captures everything you need to price accurately, plan materials, identify code requirements, and protect both parties from scope disputes once the project is underway.

Project type: define the scope before you measure anything

Deck and patio projects span a wide range of complexity, and the project type determines everything that follows — materials, permits, timeline, and price. Your intake should present clear categories and let the client select what they are looking for:

• New deck construction — a ground-up build where nothing currently exists. This is the most design-flexible option and typically the most expensive. Requires full permitting, engineered footings, and a complete material specification.
• Deck replacement (tear-down and rebuild) — removing an existing deck entirely and constructing a new one. Demolition costs add to the project, and the existing footings may or may not be reusable depending on their condition and whether the new design matches the old footprint.
• Deck repair — board replacement, structural repair, joist sistering, post replacement, or ledger board remediation. Repair jobs require a different assessment than new construction because you are evaluating what is salvageable versus what must be replaced.
• Deck refinish or stain — sanding, power washing, and applying new stain or sealant. No structural work, but the condition of the existing boards determines whether refinishing is viable or whether the deck has deteriorated past the point of cosmetic improvement.
• New patio construction — concrete, pavers, or natural stone. Fundamentally different from deck construction in terms of site preparation, materials, and trade skills required.
• Patio repair — leveling settled pavers, patching cracked concrete, re-grouting stone joints, or addressing drainage failures.
• Screened porch or three-season room — a roofed and screened structure that may require a different permit classification than an open deck. Involves framing, roofing, and screen system installation on top of the deck platform.
• Pergola or gazebo — a freestanding or attached shade structure. Simpler than a full deck but still requires footings and may require a permit depending on size and jurisdiction.
• Outdoor kitchen — a project that requires utility rough-ins (electrical, gas, water) in addition to the structural platform. This is the most complex project type because it involves coordinating multiple trades.

Site assessment: what the backyard tells you that the client will not

Clients describe what they want. The site determines what is possible. Your intake form should capture the site conditions that affect design, materials, and cost — ideally before the first site visit so you arrive prepared rather than surprised:

• Yard layout — flat, sloped, or multi-level. A flat yard is straightforward. A sloped yard may require retaining walls, stepped footings, or a cantilevered design. Multi-level yards create opportunities for tiered decks but add structural complexity and cost.
• Soil conditions — clay, sand, rocky, or fill. Clay soils expand and contract with moisture, which affects footing design. Rocky soil means difficult excavation but stable footings. Sandy soil may require wider footing pads to distribute load.
• Drainage — does water flow toward the house? A deck built over ground that channels rainwater toward the foundation creates a moisture problem that the homeowner will blame on the contractor. Document existing drainage patterns before you build over them.
• Underground utilities — has the client called 811? Digging footings without a utility locate is not just risky, it is a code violation in most jurisdictions. Your intake should include a field confirming that an 811 locate has been requested or completed.
• Property line setbacks and easements — most municipalities require structures to be set back a minimum distance from property lines. Easements may restrict building in certain areas entirely. If the client does not know their setback requirements, this is something you need to verify with the local building department before finalizing a design.
• Material delivery access — can a lumber delivery truck reach the backyard? Is there a side gate wide enough for a wheelbarrow? Will materials need to be hand-carried through the house? Access constraints affect scheduling, labor costs, and the feasibility of certain materials. A pallet of concrete pavers weighs over a ton — if the only access is through a narrow side yard with a gate, that changes the logistics substantially.
• Existing structures — trees, sheds, pools, hot tubs, AC units, and anything else that constrains the buildable area. Mature trees with root systems affect where you can place footings. An AC condenser requires clearance for airflow and service access. A hot tub requires structural support far beyond what a standard deck provides.
• Sun exposure — south-facing decks in full sun may prompt the client to request shade structures (pergola, shade sail, retractable awning) that should be planned into the design from the start rather than added as an afterthought that requires structural modifications.

Site conditions are where deck and patio work overlaps with general contracting. The permitting, setback, and utility-locate requirements are similar — the difference is the trade-specific specifications that follow.

Deck specifications: material, structure, and detail

Once you know the project type and site conditions, the intake moves to the build specification. These fields drive your material estimate, your labor quote, and your supplier orders:

• Size — total square footage. This is the primary cost driver. A 200-square-foot deck and a 600-square-foot deck are not just different in material volume — the larger deck likely requires more complex framing, additional footings, and potentially engineered plans.
• Shape — rectangle, L-shaped, wrap-around, or multi-level. Non-rectangular shapes require more complex framing, more cuts and waste, and more labor. A multi-level deck with transitions is essentially two or three separate structures connected together.
• Height above grade — ground-level, elevated (3 to 8 feet), or second-story. Height determines footing depth, post length, bracing requirements, and whether the deck requires lateral load bracing per code. A second-story deck is a substantially more complex and expensive project than a ground-level platform.
• Decking material — this is typically the client's most important decision and the one they have the most questions about. Your intake should present the options clearly: pressure-treated lumber (lowest cost, requires maintenance), cedar or redwood (natural beauty, moderate cost, some maintenance), composite (Trex, TimberTech, Azek — higher cost, low maintenance, 25-to-50-year warranty), PVC (highest weather resistance, no wood content), or ipe (premium hardwood, extreme durability, highest cost). Each material has different span requirements, fastener compatibility, and thermal behavior.
• Substructure — pressure-treated lumber is the standard for framing regardless of the decking material above it. Note this on the intake so the client understands that even a composite deck has a wood frame underneath.
• Railing — material (wood, composite, cable, glass, aluminum), style, and height requirements. Residential code typically requires 36-inch railing height; commercial requires 42 inches. Baluster spacing must not allow a 4-inch sphere to pass through. Cable railing has specific tension and deflection requirements. Glass panel railing requires tempered glass and specific post spacing. Railing is priced per linear foot and can represent a significant portion of the project cost.
• Stairs — number of stairs, width, landing requirements, and handrail specifications. Stairs wider than 36 inches may require a center stringer. Landings are required when the total rise exceeds a certain height. Handrails must be graspable (1.25 to 2 inches in diameter) and continuous from top to bottom.
• Fasteners — hidden clip systems (Camo, Tiger Claw, manufacturer-specific clips) versus traditional face-screwing. Hidden fasteners create a cleaner appearance but cost more in both materials and labor. Some composite manufacturers require their proprietary clip system to maintain the warranty.
• Lighting — post cap lights, riser lights, in-deck recessed lights, or low-voltage landscape lighting integrated into the structure. Lighting needs to be planned before construction because running wiring after the deck is built is invasive and expensive. Low-voltage systems are simpler to install and do not require an electrician; line-voltage systems do.

Patio specifications: material, base preparation, and drainage

Patio construction is fundamentally different from deck construction. There is no elevated structure — the work is about earthwork, base preparation, and surface installation. Your intake should capture:

• Material — poured concrete (most economical for large areas), concrete pavers (versatile, repairable, wide range of styles), natural stone such as flagstone, bluestone, or travertine (premium appearance, higher cost, irregular shapes), or brick (traditional look, labor-intensive installation).
• Pattern — herringbone, running bond, random, basket weave, or stamped (for poured concrete). Pattern selection affects material waste percentage and installation labor. Herringbone, for example, requires more cuts at the edges than running bond.
• Base preparation — excavation depth (typically 7 to 9 inches below finished grade for pavers), compacted gravel base (4 to 6 inches), sand setting bed (1 inch), and geotextile fabric between soil and gravel to prevent migration. Proper base preparation is what separates a patio that lasts twenty years from one that settles and heaves within three. This is also where concrete contractors and patio builders share common ground — the base preparation process is similar even when the finished surface differs.
• Edging — soldier course (pavers turned perpendicular at the border), metal edging, or plastic edging. Edging restraint prevents lateral movement of the paver field and is structurally necessary, not decorative.
• Slope — a patio must slope away from the foundation at a minimum of one-quarter inch per foot to ensure proper drainage. This is non-negotiable and should be documented on the intake as a standard specification.
• Joint material — polymeric sand (hardens to resist weed growth and insect intrusion), standard mortar (for stone and brick), or dry joints (minimal fill, more natural appearance but more maintenance).

Structural and code requirements: permits, footings, and inspections

Deck construction is one of the most heavily regulated residential projects. Unlike many home improvements that can be done without a permit, decks almost always require one — and the permit process involves inspections at multiple stages. Your intake should capture code-related information and set client expectations:

• Building permit — document whether the project requires a permit (the answer is almost always yes for decks) and who is responsible for obtaining it. Most contractors pull the permit themselves, but the client should understand that permitting adds time and cost to the project.
• Footing requirements — depth to frost line (varies by region — 36 inches in the Northeast, 12 inches in the South), diameter (typically 12 to 24 inches depending on load), and concrete specification. Footings that do not reach frost line will heave, and a deck built on heaving footings will eventually pull away from the house.
• Ledger board attachment — the connection between the deck and the house is the most critical structural detail. The intake should note the attachment method (lag bolts into rim joist or through-bolts), flashing requirements (to prevent water infiltration behind the ledger), and whether the existing house framing can support the load. Ledger failure is the leading cause of deck collapses.
• Beam sizing and joist spacing — determined by span tables published in the IRC (International Residential Code). Joist spacing is typically 12 inches or 16 inches on center, depending on the decking material and the span between supports. Composite decking generally requires closer joist spacing than wood.
• Post-to-beam connection hardware — code requires approved connectors (Simpson Strong-Tie or equivalent) at all post-to-beam and beam-to-joist connections. Notched posts are no longer code-compliant in most jurisdictions.
• Inspections — most jurisdictions require three inspections: footing (before concrete pour), framing (before decking installation), and final. Your intake should note the inspection schedule so the client understands that there will be pauses in construction while waiting for inspector availability.
• IRC deck code highlights — railing height (36 inches residential, 42 inches commercial), baluster spacing (less than 4 inches), stair requirements (maximum 7.75-inch rise, minimum 10-inch tread), and lateral load resistance (200 pounds applied laterally at the top of the railing post). Your intake does not need to list every code requirement, but it should reference that the project will be built to current IRC standards.

Permitting and code compliance is where deck work overlaps with fencing projects. Both require property line verification, setback compliance, and local permit applications — though deck permitting is substantially more involved due to the structural engineering requirements.

Utilities: electrical, gas, water, and low-voltage

An outdoor living space is only as functional as its utility connections. These are the fields that transform a platform into a usable extension of the home:

• Electrical — GFCI-protected outlets (required by code for all outdoor receptacles), dedicated lighting circuits, and hot tub circuits (typically 240-volt, 50-amp with a disconnect switch within sight of the tub). Electrical work requires a licensed electrician and a separate electrical permit in most jurisdictions.
• Gas — natural gas or propane lines for a built-in grill, fire pit, or outdoor kitchen. Gas line work requires a licensed plumber or gas fitter, a separate permit, and a pressure test before the line is buried or concealed.
• Water — hose bib relocation or addition, outdoor kitchen sink with supply and drain lines. Water supply to an outdoor kitchen requires freeze protection in cold climates — either a shutoff valve with drain-down capability or heat-traced piping.
• Low-voltage — landscape lighting, step lights, and accent lighting that operate on a 12-volt transformer. Low-voltage systems do not require an electrician or permit in most jurisdictions, but they should be planned during construction so wiring can be concealed within the structure.

Pricing: how deck and patio projects are quoted

Your intake form should establish pricing transparency so the client understands how the estimate is built. Deck and patio pricing is not a single number — it is a stack of components:

• Per-square-foot rate — varies dramatically by material and elevation. A ground-level pressure-treated deck might run $25 to $35 per square foot installed. A composite deck at the same height runs $40 to $60. An elevated ipe deck with cable railing can exceed $100 per square foot. Your intake should capture enough detail to place the project in the right price range before you invest time in a detailed estimate.
• Material cost — pressure-treated is the lowest, composite occupies the middle range, and ipe is the highest. Material cost also includes substructure lumber, hardware, fasteners, and concrete for footings — not just the visible decking boards.
• Labor — quoted per square foot or as a lump sum. Labor varies by project complexity, height, site access, and local market rates.
• Demolition — if an existing deck or patio must be removed, demolition and disposal are separate line items. A large elevated deck can generate several tons of debris.
• Foundation — footing excavation, concrete, and forming are typically quoted separately from the deck structure above.
• Railing — priced per linear foot. Cable and glass railing systems are substantially more expensive than wood or composite.
• Stairs — priced per step or as a unit. Wider stairs and stairs with landings cost more.
• Permit fees — vary by jurisdiction. Typically $200 to $500 for a residential deck permit, but can be higher for complex projects.
• Design fee — some contractors charge a design fee that is credited toward the project if the client proceeds. This compensates for the time invested in creating plans and engineering calculations for clients who may be getting multiple bids.

Warranty: what is covered and by whom

Warranty terms are a critical part of the intake because they set long-term expectations. Your form should distinguish between the different warranty layers:

• Material manufacturer warranty — pressure-treated lumber typically carries no manufacturer warranty beyond the treatment guarantee. Composite decking carries 25-to-50-year limited warranties depending on the product line. Premium composites include a structural lifetime warranty in addition to the surface warranty.
• Stain and fade warranty — composite manufacturers separately warrant against color fading and staining. These warranties have specific exclusions (mold and mildew may not be covered) that the client should understand.
• Labor warranty — the installer's warranty on workmanship. This is your warranty as the contractor, and it should be stated clearly: what it covers, for how long, and what the client must do to make a claim.
• Structural warranty — a warranty on the structural integrity of the framing, footings, and connections. Some contractors offer this separately from the general labor warranty, with a longer coverage period for structural defects.

Building the project relationship from the first form

A deck or patio is one of the largest outdoor investments a homeowner will make. The intake process is your first opportunity to demonstrate that you understand the complexity of the work and that you have a system for managing it. When a prospective client fills out a form that asks about soil conditions, frost line depth, ledger attachment, and IRC code compliance, they understand that this contractor builds to code, plans for site conditions, and does not guess at pricing.

That level of professionalism is what separates the contractor who wins the job from the one who shows up with a tape measure and quotes off the top of their head. The intake form is where that separation begins.

If you are building documentation for a multi-trade construction or renovation operation, the Trade Services Bundle includes deck and patio construction alongside 51 other service categories, each with trade-specific intake and questionnaire forms.

Related guides

• General Contractor Intake Forms — permitting, subcontractor coordination, and project management documentation for multi-trade construction projects.
• Concrete Services Intake Forms — flatwork, foundations, stamped concrete, and repair documentation for concrete contractors.
• Fencing Intake Forms — property line surveys, material selection, gate hardware, and permit requirements for fence installation.