By the Templateez Team · Licensed Attorney · June 2026

Gutter Services Intake Forms: What to Capture at Project Intake

A gutter company that arrives at a job site without knowing the building height, the linear footage, or whether the homeowner wants a simple cleaning or a full system replacement is going to waste time on the ladder, quote inaccurately, and lose the job to a competitor who showed up prepared. Gutters are one of those trades where the scope difference between two calls can be enormous — a thirty-minute cleaning on a single-story ranch versus a multi-day copper replacement on a three-story Victorian — and the intake process is where you sort that out.

Most gutter companies collect a name, an address, and a vague description of the problem. That is not intake — that is dispatching. A real gutter services intake form captures everything your crew needs to show up with the right equipment, quote the job correctly, and protect the business from scope disputes and warranty claims. Here is what that form should include.

Service type: the first fork in the road

Gutter work spans a wide range of services, and each one carries different equipment requirements, pricing models, and time estimates. Your intake form should present clear categories so the scope is defined before you schedule the site visit:

• Gutter cleaning — debris removal, downspout flushing, and flow testing. The bread-and-butter service for most gutter companies. Pricing is typically per story, not per linear foot, because height is the primary cost driver.
• Gutter repair — leak patching, sag correction, reattachment to fascia, end cap replacement, seam re-sealing. Each repair type requires different materials. A sagging gutter needs new hangers or fascia screws. A leaking seam needs sealant or soldering depending on the material. A section pulling away from the fascia may indicate rot underneath — which changes the scope entirely.
• Gutter replacement — full system removal and installation. This is a major job that involves material selection, color matching, sizing decisions, and disposal of the old system. The intake for a replacement is substantially more detailed than for a cleaning or repair.
• New gutter installation — new construction or additions where no gutter system exists. Similar to replacement but without the removal component. Requires coordination with the builder or general contractor on timing and fascia preparation.
• Gutter guard or leaf protection installation — a standalone service or an add-on to cleaning or replacement. Guard type selection is its own section (covered below) because compatibility, debris type, and warranty vary dramatically between products.
• Downspout repair or rerouting — fixing crushed downspouts, adding extensions, rerouting to a different discharge point, or connecting to underground drainage. Often requested alongside cleaning when the homeowner notices pooling at the foundation.
• Fascia and soffit repair — frequently discovered during gutter work. A crew removing old gutters finds rotten fascia behind them. This is scope expansion that should be anticipated at intake. Ask whether the homeowner has noticed soft spots, peeling paint, or water stains on the fascia or soffit. If fascia repair is likely, your quote needs to account for it or at least flag it as a probable add-on.

Property details: the variables that drive every estimate

Gutter pricing is a function of linear footage, height, material, and site access. Your intake form needs to capture the property profile before you send anyone to the site:

• Property address — for scheduling, routing, and permit lookup if the jurisdiction requires one for gutter work.
• Building type — single-family home, multi-family or duplex, townhouse, commercial building. Commercial jobs have different access logistics, insurance requirements, and often require after-hours scheduling.
• Number of stories — this is not just a pricing variable. It determines equipment requirements. A single-story home is ladder work. A two-story home may need extension ladders or a platform. A three-story building likely requires a lift or scaffolding, which changes the crew size, the scheduling, and the cost.
• Roof type — asphalt shingle, metal, tile, flat (EPDM or TPO), cedar shake. The roof type affects how your crew accesses the gutters, what debris is typical (shingle grit versus pine needles versus nothing on a metal roof), and whether walking the roof is safe.
• Roof pitch — low-slope, moderate, or steep. A steep-pitch roof requires fall protection, harnesses, and often a different approach to gutter access. Some crews will not walk a steep roof at all and work entirely from ladders, which affects time and pricing. Your intake should capture this or at least ask the homeowner to describe whether the roof appears steep.
• Linear feet of gutter — the total run. Most homeowners will not know this number, so provide options: under 100 feet, 100 to 200, 200 to 300, over 300, or "unsure — please measure at site visit." For replacement quotes, you will measure at the site, but having a rough estimate at intake helps you allocate the right amount of time for the appointment.
• Number of corners — inside and outside corners. Corners are where leaks develop, where debris accumulates, and where installation requires miter cuts. More corners mean more labor and more potential failure points.
• Number of downspouts — existing count and whether the homeowner wants to add or relocate any. Undersized downspout count is a common cause of overflow, and your intake should flag it as a potential recommendation.
• Existing gutter material — aluminum (by far the most common), vinyl, galvanized steel, copper, or wood (historic properties). Knowing the existing material matters even for cleaning, because copper gutters require different handling than aluminum, and vinyl gutters crack if a crew member leans a ladder against them incorrectly.

Many of these property details overlap with what a roofing company captures at intake — pitch, roof type, number of stories, access conditions. The difference is what you are looking at once you get up there. Roofers are examining the deck and the shingles. Gutter crews are examining the fascia, the slope, and the drainage path.

Current condition: what is actually happening with the existing system

For repair and replacement jobs, the condition assessment is where your intake transitions from scheduling to scoping. The more you know before the site visit, the more accurate your initial estimate and the less likely you are to discover surprises on the ladder:

• Gutter age — how old is the current system? Aluminum gutters last 20 to 30 years. Vinyl lasts 10 to 15. Copper lasts 50-plus. Age tells you whether repair or replacement is the better recommendation.
• Leaks — where are they? At seams, at corners, at end caps, or along the run? Seam leaks in sectional gutters are the most common and often the simplest repair. Leaks along the run may indicate corrosion or physical damage.
• Overflow points — where does water spill over the edge during rain? Overflow usually indicates a clog, an undersized gutter, insufficient downspout capacity, or a slope problem. Ask the homeowner to describe where they see water sheeting over the edge.
• Sag or separation from fascia — gutters pulling away from the house. This can mean failed hangers, rotten fascia, or both. If the fascia is rotten, you cannot simply re-screw the gutter — you need to replace the fascia board first.
• Ice dam history — in cold climates, ice dams form at the gutter line and force water under the shingles and into the soffit. If the homeowner reports ice dams, the solution may involve heat cable installation, improved attic insulation, or gutter repositioning — not just gutter replacement.
• Standing water — water sitting in the gutter after rain has stopped indicates a slope problem. Gutters should slope toward downspouts at roughly a quarter inch per ten feet. Standing water accelerates corrosion, breeds mosquitoes, and adds weight that worsens sagging.
• Rust or corrosion — visible rust on steel gutters, white oxidation on aluminum, or green patina on copper (patina is normal on copper and usually desirable). Rust indicates the protective coating has failed and replacement is typically the better investment over repair.
• Fascia damage behind gutters — rot, water staining, soft spots, peeling paint. Your crew often cannot see fascia damage until the gutters come off, but homeowners can sometimes see evidence from below. Ask specifically, because fascia repair changes the job scope and price significantly.
• Downspout discharge — where does water go after it exits the downspout? Onto the ground next to the foundation? Into a splash block? Into an underground drain? Toward the neighbor's property? Improper discharge is one of the most common causes of foundation water problems, and your intake should document it so you can recommend corrective routing.
• Foundation pooling — has the homeowner noticed water pooling near the foundation after rain? This is the downstream consequence of gutter failure, and documenting it at intake connects the gutter work to the homeowner's actual concern — protecting the foundation.

Material selection for replacement and new installation

When the job is a replacement or new installation, material selection is a conversation that should begin at intake, not at the site visit. The homeowner's material preference affects your quote, your ordering timeline, and your crew assignment:

• Aluminum — the most common residential gutter material. Available painted in dozens of colors. Seamless aluminum (formed on-site from a continuous coil) is the industry standard for residential replacement. Lightweight, corrosion-resistant, and mid-range in price.
• Copper — premium material that develops a green patina over time. Three to five times the cost of aluminum. Soldered joints instead of sealant. Often specified on historic homes or high-end construction. Requires a crew experienced in copper fabrication.
• Steel — galvanized or galvalume. Stronger than aluminum and better for areas with heavy snow or ice loads. Heavier, which means more robust mounting. Galvanized steel will eventually rust; galvalume lasts longer but costs more.
• Vinyl — the budget option. Snap-together sectional installation. No painting required. But vinyl becomes brittle in cold climates, fades in UV exposure, and has a shorter lifespan than any metal option. Appropriate for budget-conscious homeowners in moderate climates.
• Profile style — K-style (the standard ogee profile found on most American homes) or half-round (a semicircular profile common on historic and European-style homes). Half-round gutters require different hangers and are more expensive to install.
• Size — 5-inch, 6-inch, or 7-inch. Size is determined by the roof area draining into each gutter run. A 5-inch gutter is adequate for most single-story homes with moderate roof area. A 6-inch gutter handles larger roof planes and heavier rainfall. A 7-inch gutter is for commercial buildings or homes with very large roof areas. Your intake should capture the homeowner's preference if they have one, or note that you will recommend sizing based on the site measurement.
• Color — for painted aluminum and steel, the gutter color should match or complement the home's trim, fascia, or siding. Ask the homeowner whether they want an exact match to existing trim or a specific color. Bring a color chart to the site visit, but knowing the general preference at intake helps you prepare.

Gutter guards: a product category that requires its own intake section

Gutter guards are one of the most oversold and under-explained products in the home services industry. Homeowners hear "never clean your gutters again" and expect a maintenance-free solution. The reality is more nuanced, and your intake form is where you set accurate expectations:

• Guard type — micro-mesh (fine stainless steel screen over a frame), perforated aluminum screen, foam inserts, brush inserts, or reverse-curve (surface tension) systems. Each performs differently depending on the debris environment.
• Compatibility with existing gutters — not every guard fits every gutter. Some guards require specific gutter profiles or sizes. Some attach to the gutter lip; others slide under the first course of shingles (which can void the roofing warranty). Capture the existing gutter type so you can recommend a compatible product.
• Debris environment — what is falling into the gutters? Broad leaves, pine needles, shingle grit, seed pods, small twigs, or a combination? This determines which guard type will actually work. Micro-mesh handles pine needles and shingle grit better than perforated screens. Foam inserts can trap seeds that sprout inside the gutter. Reverse-curve systems struggle with heavy pine needle loads. Your intake should ask the homeowner to describe the trees overhanging the roof so you can recommend appropriately.
• Warranty — gutter guard warranties vary wildly, from five years to "lifetime." What does the warranty actually cover? Materials only, or materials and labor? Does it cover clogging, or only structural failure of the guard itself? Many lifetime warranties are non-transferable, which matters if the homeowner plans to sell. Document the homeowner's warranty expectations at intake so you can match them to the right product.
• Maintenance expectations — guards reduce cleaning frequency but do not eliminate maintenance. Debris can accumulate on top of guards and need to be brushed off. Some guards require periodic removal and cleaning. Your intake form should include a clear note that guard installation is not a replacement for all maintenance, and the homeowner should acknowledge this.

Access and site conditions

Gutter work is ladder work at minimum and lift work at maximum. The site conditions determine your equipment needs, your crew safety plan, and your pricing:

• Height and stories — single-story (standard ladder), two-story (extension ladder or articulating ladder), three-story or higher (boom lift or scaffolding). If a lift is required, you need to know whether it can access the site — which leads to the next set of questions.
• Landscaping below the gutter line — flower beds, shrubs, ornamental plantings, retaining walls. Ladders and lifts can damage landscaping. Your crew needs to know what is below before they set up, and the homeowner needs to understand that some landscape disruption may be unavoidable for high work.
• Roof access — can your crew access the roof, or is all work performed from ladders? On steep-pitch roofs, the crew may work entirely from ladders, which is slower and more physically demanding.
• Overhead wires — power lines, cable lines, and phone lines near the roofline are a safety hazard for ladder work and a serious hazard for lift operation. Your intake should ask whether the homeowner is aware of any overhead wires near the gutters.
• Steep pitch surcharge — if the roof pitch exceeds a certain threshold (often 8/12 or steeper), your company may apply a surcharge for the additional safety equipment and time required. This should be disclosed at intake, not discovered on the invoice.
• Ground conditions — what is the ground surface around the perimeter of the building? Grass, concrete, pavers, gravel, deck, or soft soil? Soft soil can make ladder footing unstable. Decks and pavers can be damaged by ladder feet or lift outriggers. Concrete is ideal. Your crew needs to know what they are setting equipment on.

Pricing structure

Gutter pricing varies by service type, and your intake form should establish the pricing model so the homeowner knows what to expect when the estimate arrives:

• Cleaning — typically priced per story. A single-story cleaning might be $100 to $200; a two-story home, $150 to $300. Some companies price per linear foot for cleaning, but per-story is simpler for the homeowner to understand.
• Installation and replacement — priced per linear foot, with the rate varying by material. Aluminum seamless runs $6 to $12 per linear foot installed. Copper runs $25 to $40 or more. These ranges should be on your intake form or estimate sheet so the homeowner has a frame of reference.
• Repair — priced per section with a minimum service charge. Most companies have a minimum trip charge ($75 to $150) regardless of the repair size, because the mobilization cost is the same whether you are sealing one seam or five.
• Gutter guards — priced per linear foot installed. Micro-mesh systems run $7 to $15 per foot. Basic screens, $3 to $6. Reverse-curve systems, $10 to $20. The range is wide because the products are fundamentally different.
• Fascia repair — priced per linear foot. Wood fascia replacement typically runs $6 to $20 per linear foot depending on material and whether paint is included.
• Downspout replacement or addition — priced per unit. A new downspout run, including elbow and extension, is typically $50 to $150 per unit installed.
• Disposal — removal and disposal of old gutters is sometimes included in the replacement price and sometimes a separate line item. Your intake should clarify whether disposal is included or an add-on.

Warranty terms: material versus labor versus guard

Warranty is where gutter companies most often create confusion, because there are multiple warranties in play and they do not all come from the same source:

• Material warranty — provided by the manufacturer. Aluminum paint finishes are typically warranted for 20 to 30 years. Copper has no finish warranty because it is not painted. Steel galvanization warranties vary. This warranty covers defects in the material, not installation errors.
• Labor warranty — provided by your company. Covers workmanship — hangers pulling out, seams failing, improper slope causing standing water. Industry standard is one to five years, but some companies offer longer. This is a competitive differentiator worth documenting at intake.
• Seam warranty — seamless gutters have far fewer seams than sectional, which means fewer potential leak points. If you install seamless gutters, your seam warranty covers only the end caps, corners, and downspout outlets. If you install sectional, every joint is a potential warranty claim. The homeowner should understand this distinction at intake.
• Gutter guard warranty — separate from the gutter warranty entirely. The guard manufacturer warrants the guard product. Your company warrants the guard installation. If the guard fails but the gutter underneath is fine, the guard warranty applies. If the gutter leaks at a point unrelated to the guard, the gutter warranty applies. These are different claims with different processes, and documenting the distinction at intake prevents confusion later.

Building professionalism from the first interaction

A thorough intake form tells the homeowner that your company understands gutter systems at a level beyond "we clean gutters." When a prospective client fills out a form that asks about their roof pitch, their downspout discharge path, and their fascia condition, they understand that this company has enough experience to know what questions actually matter. That is the first step toward the trust that turns a one-time cleaning call into a long-term maintenance relationship — and eventually a replacement job when the system reaches the end of its life.

If you are building documentation across a multi-trade operation, the Trade Services Bundle includes gutter services alongside 51 other service categories, each with trade-specific intake fields.