By the Templateez Team · Licensed Attorney · June 2026

Kitchen Remodeling Intake Forms: What Contractors Need to Capture at Project Intake

A kitchen remodel is one of the highest-dollar, highest-complexity jobs a residential contractor takes on. The average project involves at least four trades — demo, plumbing, electrical, and cabinetry — and the scope can shift dramatically between a $6,000 cabinet refacing and a $90,000 full gut renovation with a layout change. If your intake process does not capture the right details before the first site visit, you will underbid the job, miss permit requirements, order materials that do not fit, or discover mid-project that the homeowner expected an island you never discussed.

A name, address, and rough budget is not intake. A real kitchen remodel intake form documents everything your estimator needs to scope the project accurately, identify structural and code implications early, and set client expectations before a single cabinet gets pulled off the wall. Here is what that form should include.

Project scope: defining what the client actually wants

Kitchen remodels are not one thing. A homeowner who says "I want to redo my kitchen" could mean anything from replacing countertops to tearing out a load-bearing wall and relocating the plumbing stack. Your intake form needs to establish the project type before you can estimate cost, timeline, or trade involvement:

• Full gut renovation — strip the kitchen to studs. New layout, new everything. This is the most expensive and complex scope, typically involving structural, plumbing, electrical, and HVAC changes. Timeline: 8–16 weeks minimum.
• Cabinet refacing or refinishing only — keep the existing cabinet boxes, replace or resurface the doors and drawer fronts, update hardware. No plumbing, no electrical, no structural changes. This is a cosmetic project with a fraction of the cost and timeline of a gut renovation.
• Countertop replacement — new countertop material on existing cabinets. Requires template, fabrication, and installation. May involve sink and faucet replacement if the new countertop changes the cutout dimensions or undermount configuration.
• Layout change — moving the work triangle — relocating the sink, stove, or refrigerator position. This triggers plumbing and electrical rough-in work and potentially structural modifications. Every inch the sink moves means drain line and supply line rerouting.
• Island addition — adding a kitchen island where none exists. Requires floor assessment (is there a basement below or a slab?), potential plumbing for a prep sink, electrical for outlets, and clearance planning. Islands on slabs with plumbing are significantly more expensive because of the concrete cutting required for drain lines.
• Open-concept wall removal — taking out a wall between the kitchen and dining or living room. If the wall is load-bearing — and in most homes, at least one kitchen wall is — this requires a structural engineer, a beam, temporary supports during demo, and a building permit. This single decision can add $5,000–$15,000 to a project.
• Pantry addition — building out pantry storage, either as a walk-in closet conversion or as tall cabinet pantry units replacing existing base and wall cabinets.
• Appliance upgrade only — no structural work — new appliances in the same locations with the same utility connections. The simplest scope, but still requires verifying that the existing electrical circuits and gas line support the new units.

Most projects combine several of these scopes. Your form should use a checklist format so the homeowner selects all that apply, giving your estimator a clear picture before they arrive on site.

Existing kitchen assessment: what you are working with

You cannot scope a remodel without understanding the current state of the kitchen. Your intake form should capture the existing conditions so your estimator knows what to inspect, measure, and test during the site visit:

Current layout. Galley, L-shape, U-shape, island, or one-wall. The existing layout determines how much structural and plumbing work is needed to achieve the desired result. Converting a galley to an open-concept island layout is a fundamentally different project than updating a U-shape kitchen in place.

Dimensions. Length, width, and ceiling height. Ceiling height matters for cabinet selection — 42-inch uppers look proportional in a kitchen with 9-foot ceilings but overwhelm a room with 8-foot ceilings. Exact dimensions also determine whether stock cabinet sizes will work or whether fillers and custom panels are needed.

Cabinet condition. Age, material (solid wood, particleboard, plywood, MDF), and style. Cabinets that are 30 years old with delaminating particleboard boxes cannot be refaced — they need full replacement. Solid wood cabinets in good condition may only need new doors and hardware.

Countertop. Current material (laminate, granite, quartz, tile, butcher block, concrete), condition, and age. This tells your estimator what demo is involved and whether the existing cabinets can support a heavier replacement material. Granite on particleboard cabinets that are already sagging is a structural conversation, not a countertop conversation.

Flooring. Material (tile, hardwood, vinyl, linoleum) and — critically — whether the flooring extends under the cabinets or stops at the cabinet toe kicks. If the flooring stops at the cabinets and the client wants new flooring, the sequencing changes: you may need to install flooring before cabinets, which affects the entire project timeline.

Plumbing. Current sink location, dishwasher connection, ice maker line (if present), and whether the homeowner wants a pot filler over the range. Each of these is a plumbing run that needs to be confirmed or planned.

Gas line. Is the current stove or range gas or electric? If the client wants to switch from electric to gas (or vice versa), you need a gas line run or a 240V circuit, respectively. Gas line work requires a licensed plumber and a gas permit in most jurisdictions.

Electrical. Number of circuits serving the kitchen, amperage of the panel, outlet locations, and which appliances have dedicated circuits. Older homes frequently have kitchens running on two 15-amp circuits shared with adjacent rooms — nowhere near enough for a modern kitchen with a dishwasher, disposal, microwave, refrigerator, and countertop outlets all drawing power simultaneously.

Lighting. Current lighting type — recessed cans, pendant fixtures, under-cabinet lighting, and the amount of natural light from windows. Lighting is often an afterthought in kitchen remodels, but a kitchen with one overhead fixture and no under-cabinet lighting is a kitchen where the homeowner will be unhappy with the result regardless of how good the cabinets look.

Ventilation. Current range hood or microwave vent, ducted versus ductless, and CFM rating. Code requires kitchen ventilation, and upgrading from a ductless microwave vent to a properly ducted range hood means cutting through an exterior wall or routing ductwork through the ceiling — work that must be planned before cabinets are ordered.

Cabinet, countertop, and backsplash selection

Cabinets and countertops represent 40–60% of a typical kitchen remodel budget. Your intake form should capture the client's preferences at a level sufficient for initial quoting, even though final selections happen later in the design phase:

• Cabinet style, material, finish, and hardware — shaker, flat-panel, raised-panel, glass-front. Wood species (maple, oak, cherry, birch). Painted versus stained. Soft-close hinges, pull-out drawers, lazy Susans, built-in organizers. These details drive the price difference between a $5,000 stock cabinet order and a $35,000 custom cabinet package. For a deep dive on what to capture for cabinets specifically, see our cabinet and countertop intake guide.
• Countertop material, edge profile, and thickness — quartz, granite, marble, quartzite, butcher block, laminate, concrete, porcelain slab. Edge treatment (eased, bullnose, ogee, mitered). Standard 2cm versus premium 3cm thickness. The same cross-reference to our cabinet and countertop guide covers these selections in detail.
• Backsplash — subway tile, mosaic, large-format tile, natural stone slab, peel-and-stick, or full-height slab matching the countertop. Height — standard 18 inches from counter to upper cabinets, or full height to the ceiling. Backsplash material and height affect the tile order, labor estimate, and whether the countertop fabricator needs to account for slab-matched backsplash pieces.

Appliance specifications

Appliances drive layout dimensions. A cabinet order cannot be finalized until the appliance models are selected — or at minimum, the appliance dimensions are confirmed. Your intake should capture the appliance plan:

• Refrigerator — freestanding (standard depth, typically 30–36 inches deep), counter-depth (24–25 inches deep for a flush look), or built-in (panel-ready, integrated into cabinetry). Width: 30, 33, or 36 inches standard. A built-in refrigerator requires custom cabinet panels and a dedicated water line for ice and water dispenser.
• Range or cooktop — gas, electric, induction, or dual fuel. Slide-in (no backguard, sits flush with countertop) or freestanding (finished sides, backguard). Width: 30 or 36 inches standard, 48 inches for pro-style. Induction ranges draw 40–50 amps and require a dedicated 240V circuit — if the existing panel does not have capacity, that is an electrician conversation and possibly a panel upgrade.
• Dishwasher — standard 24-inch, panel-ready (accepts a cabinet-matching panel for a seamless look), or drawer-style (single or double drawer). Panel-ready units need the cabinet panel ordered with the cabinet package.
• Microwave — over-the-range (replaces or supplements the range hood), built-in (installed in a wall cabinet or island), countertop (no installation), or microwave drawer (installed in a base cabinet). Over-the-range microwaves provide ventilation but at lower CFM than a dedicated hood, which may not meet code in some jurisdictions.
• Range hood — wall-mount, island-mount, or downdraft. CFM rating should match the BTU output of the range (general rule: 1 CFM per 100 BTU for gas). Duct run length and number of elbows affect effective CFM — a 30-foot duct run with three 90-degree turns may need a higher-rated hood to compensate for static pressure loss.
• Sink — single bowl, double bowl, farmhouse (apron-front), or undermount. Farmhouse sinks require a modified base cabinet and are installed before the countertop, which changes the installation sequence. Undermount sinks are cut into the countertop from below — the fabricator needs the sink on hand during templating.
• Garbage disposal and instant hot water — both require dedicated electrical connections under the sink. If neither exists currently and the client wants them, that is an electrical add to the scope.

Layout and workflow: the work triangle and traffic flow

A kitchen that looks beautiful but functions poorly is a failed remodel. Your intake should capture the client's workflow preferences and identify potential layout problems before design begins:

• Work triangle — the distances between sink, stove, and refrigerator. The triangle should total between 13 and 26 feet, with no single leg shorter than 4 feet or longer than 9 feet. These numbers are not arbitrary — they are based on decades of kitchen ergonomic research and are codified in NKBA guidelines.
• Traffic flow — a galley kitchen with entry points at both ends becomes a hallway during parties. An island that forces traffic to squeeze through a 30-inch gap between the island and the counter will frustrate the homeowner daily. Capture how the kitchen connects to adjacent rooms and how many people typically use it simultaneously.
• Island clearance — minimum 42 inches on all working sides of an island, 48 inches preferred if the kitchen has multiple cooks. Less than 42 inches and cabinet doors and dishwasher doors collide with anyone standing at the island.
• Pantry access — where does food storage live? Is there an existing pantry? Does the client want one added? Pantry placement affects traffic patterns and grocery-unloading workflow.
• Dining integration — does the client want island seating, a breakfast bar, or a separate eat-in area? Seating at an island requires a 12–15 inch overhang on the seating side, which affects the countertop template and the island's structural requirements.
• Open-concept implications — if the client wants to open the kitchen to the living or dining room, which walls are involved? A structural wall assessment is needed before any design work proceeds. Document the client's expectations for sightlines, noise (range hoods are loud in open-concept spaces), and cooking odor containment.

Plumbing and electrical: the infrastructure underneath

Plumbing and electrical are the two trades most frequently underestimated in kitchen remodel bids. Your intake form should surface the infrastructure questions early so your estimate accounts for them:

• Sink relocation — moving a sink means moving both the drain line and the supply lines. If the sink moves more than a few feet, the drain line may need to be rerouted through the floor or wall cavity, which adds plumbing labor and potentially requires opening up the ceiling below (in two-story homes).
• Gas line — is there an existing gas line to the stove location? If the client is switching from electric to gas, a new gas line run from the meter or manifold is required, along with a gas permit and inspection. If the client is switching from gas to induction, the gas line needs to be properly capped.
• Electrical panel capacity — modern kitchens draw significant power. An induction range alone requires a 40–50 amp dedicated circuit. If the existing panel is a 100-amp service with no spare breaker slots, a panel upgrade may be necessary before any kitchen electrical work can proceed.
• Dedicated circuits — current code requires dedicated circuits for the dishwasher, garbage disposal, microwave, and refrigerator. Many older kitchens have these appliances sharing circuits with countertop outlets. Your intake should ask how many circuits currently serve the kitchen and note the appliance circuit situation for the electrician to assess.
• GFCI protection — all countertop outlets within 6 feet of a water source must be GFCI-protected. If the existing kitchen does not have GFCI outlets, they will need to be installed as part of the remodel to meet current code. This is non-negotiable on any permitted project.
• Under-cabinet and in-cabinet lighting — LED under-cabinet lighting requires a dedicated circuit or a connection to the lighting circuit with a separate switch. In-cabinet lighting (inside glass-front uppers) needs planning before the cabinets are ordered.

Permits and code compliance

Kitchen remodels frequently trigger permit requirements that homeowners do not anticipate. Your intake form should flag the permit conversation early:

• Building permit — required for any structural changes (wall removal, beam installation), plumbing relocation, or electrical circuit additions. In most jurisdictions, cosmetic-only remodels (new cabinets and countertops in the same footprint with no plumbing or electrical changes) do not require a permit. Everything else does.
• Plumbing permit — required when moving or adding plumbing fixtures. Moving a sink, adding a pot filler, or running a water line to a new refrigerator location all trigger plumbing permit requirements.
• Electrical permit — required when adding circuits, moving outlets, or upgrading the panel. Adding GFCI outlets to an existing circuit may or may not require a permit depending on jurisdiction.
• Structural engineer — required when removing a load-bearing wall. The engineer designs the beam and specifies the temporary support plan. This is a hard prerequisite — no demo should occur until the engineering is complete and the structural permit is issued.
• IRC kitchen code requirements — outlet spacing (every 4 feet along countertops and within 2 feet of any countertop end), GFCI on all countertop receptacles, ventilation (exhaust fan or operable window), and smoke and CO detectors in adjacent areas. Your intake should note the current state of code compliance so your estimator can include code-required upgrades in the bid.

Pricing: setting realistic expectations at intake

Kitchen remodel pricing has more variables than almost any other residential project. Your intake form should capture enough information to provide a meaningful range, not a single number that will change after the first site visit:

• Per-square-foot range — kitchen remodels typically run $75–$250+ per square foot depending on scope, materials, and market. A cosmetic refresh in a 120-square-foot kitchen is a different conversation than a gut renovation of a 200-square-foot kitchen with a layout change.
• Cabinet allowance — stock cabinets ($75–$150 per linear foot installed), semi-custom ($150–$350), or custom ($500–$1,200+). This is typically the single largest line item in the budget.
• Countertop — per square foot by material — laminate ($15–$40), butcher block ($40–$100), quartz ($50–$150), granite ($50–$200), marble ($75–$250), quartzite ($100–$300+). These ranges include fabrication and installation.
• Appliance package — budget ($2,000–$5,000 for basic four-piece), mid-range ($5,000–$12,000), or high-end ($12,000–$30,000+ for pro-grade). Appliance selection drives both budget and electrical/gas infrastructure requirements.
• Labor by trade — demolition, framing, plumbing rough-in, electrical rough-in, tile work, cabinet installation, and countertop templating and installation are all separate labor categories. Your intake should capture enough scope detail to estimate each trade's involvement.
• Contingency — 15–20% — standard for kitchen remodels. Older homes especially reveal surprises behind walls — water damage, outdated wiring, asbestos tile, plumbing that does not meet current code. A client who does not budget contingency will be unhappy when the unexpected but predictable cost appears.
• Financing — common for projects above $30,000. If your company offers financing options or works with third-party lenders, the intake is where you mention it so the client can plan accordingly.

Building the project from a complete intake

A kitchen remodel that starts with a thorough intake is a kitchen remodel that stays on budget and on schedule. When your estimator arrives at the site visit with the project scope already defined, the existing conditions documented, and the client's appliance and material preferences captured, the visit becomes a verification step — confirming measurements, inspecting infrastructure, and discussing design options — instead of a discovery session where both parties are starting from zero.

Kitchen remodels overlap significantly with general home remodeling projects on structural, permitting, and client-management topics. If your company handles full-home renovations beyond the kitchen, that guide covers the broader intake framework. For the cabinet and countertop selection portion specifically — which is detailed enough to warrant its own documentation — our cabinet and countertop intake guide walks through material comparisons, edge profiles, hardware specifications, and the fabrication timeline that drives project scheduling.

If you are building documentation across a multi-trade operation, the Trade Services Bundle includes kitchen remodeling alongside 51 other service categories, each with trade-specific intake fields.