July 11, 2026

Window & Door Installation Intake Forms: What to Capture Before You Measure the First Opening

A window installation job that starts with "I need twelve windows" and no further detail will end in problems. Which twelve windows? What sizes? Are any of them non-standard shapes? Is the existing framing rotted? Is there lead paint? Does the homeowner want vinyl or wood? Double-hung or casement? Low-E glass with argon fill or basic clear? Each of those questions changes the material cost, the labor time, the permit requirements, and the project timeline. If you do not ask them at intake, you will be asking them on the job site when the answers are most expensive to accommodate.

Window and door installation is deceptively complex. From the outside, it looks like you pull out the old one and put in the new one. From the inside, it involves structural assessment, precise measurement, material selection across dozens of product lines, energy code compliance, potential hazardous material abatement, and warranty documentation that the homeowner will reference for the next twenty years. A thorough window and door installation intake form captures all of this before your crew loads the truck.

Product type and scope: what are we actually installing

The first thing your intake needs to establish is what the customer wants replaced and how many units are involved. This sounds obvious, but the distinction between a full-frame replacement and an insert (pocket) replacement changes everything — cost, labor, timeline, and whether the interior trim stays or goes.

• Windows, doors, or both — many jobs include a mix. A homeowner replacing all the windows may also want a new sliding patio door or a front entry door. Each product category has different lead times, and doors require different rough opening preparation than windows.
• Replacement type — full-frame replacement (removing the existing frame down to the rough opening) versus insert replacement (fitting a new sash and frame inside the existing frame). Full-frame costs more and takes longer but is necessary when the existing frame is damaged. Insert replacement is faster and less invasive but only works if the existing frame is sound.
• Unit count by location — not just "twelve windows" but "three in the living room, two in the master bedroom, one in the bathroom, two in the kitchen, two in bedroom two, one in bedroom three, one in the basement." Location matters because some rooms may have accessibility constraints, some windows may be on upper floors requiring ladders or scaffolding, and some locations may have different energy code requirements (egress windows in bedrooms, tempered glass in bathrooms).
• Window styles — double-hung, single-hung, casement, awning, slider, picture, bay, bow, hopper, garden. Each style has different hardware, different installation procedures, and different price points. A homeowner who says "just regular windows" usually means double-hung, but confirm it.
• Door types — entry doors (single, double, with sidelights, with transom), sliding patio doors, French doors, storm doors. Door installations require threshold work, weatherstripping, hardware installation, and often lockset boring that windows do not involve.

Material selection: what the homeowner is paying for over the next thirty years

The material choice is one of the biggest decisions in a window project, and most homeowners do not fully understand the trade-offs. Your intake should document what they have chosen (or if they are still deciding) and note any constraints that limit the options.

• Frame material — vinyl, wood, fiberglass, aluminum, composite, or clad (wood interior with aluminum or fiberglass exterior). Vinyl is the most affordable and lowest-maintenance. Wood is the most expensive and requires painting or staining. Fiberglass is the strongest and most dimensionally stable. Aluminum is common in commercial but rare in residential. Some historic districts require wood windows regardless of the homeowner's preference.
• Glass package — double-pane or triple-pane, Low-E coating (Low-E2, Low-E3, Low-E 366), gas fill (argon, krypton, or air), tinted glass, obscure glass for bathrooms, impact-rated glass in hurricane zones. The glass package is where energy efficiency lives, and it is where the price difference between a $300 window and a $700 window hides.
• Color and finish — interior and exterior colors (which may differ), hardware finish (chrome, brushed nickel, oil-rubbed bronze, white, black). Custom colors extend lead times. Painted exteriors on vinyl windows void most manufacturers' warranties.
• Grid pattern — no grids, colonial, prairie, diamond, custom. Grids can be between-the-glass, simulated divided lite, or true divided lite. This is an aesthetic choice but it affects the window cost and the manufacturing lead time.

Energy efficiency and code compliance

Energy codes are not optional, and they vary by climate zone. A window that is code-compliant in Houston is not code-compliant in Minneapolis. Your intake should document the property's climate zone and the applicable energy code so the specified products meet the minimum U-factor, Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC), and air infiltration requirements.

If the homeowner is pursuing ENERGY STAR certification or applying for utility rebates or tax credits, document that too. The federal energy efficiency tax credit has specific performance thresholds that are stricter than code minimums. A homeowner who wanted the tax credit but got windows that do not qualify will blame you, even if the windows meet code. Ask the question at intake and specify the right product.

For homes in historic districts, local preservation boards may have their own requirements that override energy code: divided-lite windows only, wood frames only, specific proportions matching the original fenestration pattern. Check for historic restrictions before you order.

Existing conditions: what you are working with

The condition of the existing windows and their frames determines whether this is a straightforward swap or a project with structural surprises. Your intake should document what your estimator observes during the site visit:

• Frame condition — is the existing frame solid, or is there visible rot, water damage, insect damage, or structural deterioration? Rotted frames cannot accept an insert replacement. If full-frame replacement is needed, that changes the scope and price.
• Water damage indicators — staining around window frames, peeling paint, soft drywall below the sill, mold or mildew. These suggest that the existing windows have been leaking and that the rough opening may need repair before the new window is installed.
• Lead paint — any home built before 1978 may have lead paint. The EPA's Renovation, Repair, and Painting (RRP) Rule requires that work disturbing lead paint be performed by an EPA-certified renovator using lead-safe work practices. This adds cost, time, and regulatory requirements. Your intake should note the year the home was built, whether lead testing has been done, and whether your crew is RRP-certified. Ignoring this is not just a liability risk — it is a federal violation with fines up to $37,500 per day.
• Interior trim condition — will existing casing and trim be reused or replaced? If reusing, is it in good enough condition to remove and reinstall without damage? If replacing, what style and material does the homeowner want?
• Exterior cladding — what is the exterior wall material (vinyl siding, wood clapboard, brick, stucco, stone)? This determines the exterior trim approach and the flashing details. Stucco and brick installations require different cutting and finishing work than siding, and typically cost more.

Permits and HOA requirements

Many jurisdictions require permits for window and door replacement, particularly when changing the size or location of an opening, or when structural headers are involved. Your intake should document whether permits are required, who is responsible for pulling them (you or the homeowner), the permit fee, and the expected inspection schedule.

For homes in HOA communities, the architectural review committee may need to approve the project before work begins. Some HOAs have specific requirements about window style, color, and grid pattern to maintain neighborhood uniformity. If the homeowner has not checked with their HOA, note that on the intake as a pending item and make it clear that work cannot begin until approval is obtained. A completed installation that the HOA rejects is a problem that falls on your company, not the homeowner.

If the project involves changes to egress (bedroom windows that must meet minimum opening size for emergency exit), note the egress requirements on the intake. A window that does not meet egress will fail inspection, and a window that was egress-compliant and gets replaced with one that is not creates a code violation the homeowner may not discover until they try to sell the house.

Scheduling, access, and logistics

Window installations disrupt the household. Your intake should set expectations for the project timeline and document any logistical constraints:

• Product lead time — stock windows ship in days; custom-order windows can take 4 to 12 weeks depending on the manufacturer and the options selected. Document the expected lead time so the homeowner knows when installation will happen.
• Installation timeline — how many days for the crew to complete the work? A twelve-window retrofit on a single-story ranch is a different schedule than a twelve-window full-frame replacement on a three-story colonial with scaffolding requirements.
• Access constraints — landscaping that needs protection, furniture that needs moving, rooms that will be temporarily exposed to the elements, pets that need to be secured, security systems that need to be deactivated for specific zones. All of this should be documented before installation day, not discovered at 7 a.m. when the crew shows up.
• Weather contingency — window installations cannot proceed in rain. What is the plan if weather delays the project? How does the crew secure any openings that are mid-installation at the end of the day?

Warranty documentation: the paper trail that lasts decades

Windows carry two separate warranties: the manufacturer's warranty on the product (typically 20 years to lifetime on frame and glass, shorter on hardware and moving parts) and your company's warranty on the installation labor (typically 1 to 10 years). Your intake should document both, because the homeowner will call you in seven years when a seal fails and you need to determine whether it is a product warranty claim or an installation deficiency.

Record the manufacturer, product line, warranty terms, and the process for filing a warranty claim. For your installation warranty, document exactly what is covered, what voids the warranty (improper maintenance, unauthorized modifications, failure to address condensation between panes promptly), and how the homeowner contacts you for warranty service. Getting this on paper at intake prevents the conversation where the homeowner insists you guaranteed the windows for life when your labor warranty is two years.

For projects that involve related trades — interior and exterior painting after installation, or coordination with a general contractor on a larger renovation — note those dependencies on the intake so scheduling accounts for the full project sequence.

Browse our full home services intake form collection for other trade-specific forms.